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PRIVACY PLUS LUXURYBY PHILIP TRUPP |
Remember when the Caribbean was a distant getaway, a retreat remote and exotic with islands that evoked
pure fantasy?
Not long ago you could tell people you were flying to St. Lucia and they'd react as if you were roughing it on
some speck of sand and scrub you just couldn't live without St. Lucia was once "the edge."
The challenge today is finding the original Caribbean destinations that are still on the edge, but not so far out
of the mainstream as to be a risky investment.
Among my personal favorites in the past year of travel were the Eastern Caribbean islands of St. Vincent and
the Grenadines.
I was impressed by their raw volcanic landscapes, the black sand beaches and the whole look and feel of true
island life. It was fun to fly the small puddle jumping aircraft connecting the islands. (The way I see it, if I
touch down at my final destination aboard some antique highwing propchopper, I know I've arrived at the
right place.)
I was also intrigued by the soul of the islands. It is, for me, wonderful to feel easy enough to "discuss"
philosophy with Rastas, trade stories with the locals, and to explore at will and drink the island champagne.
Human touch counts for a lot, and it adds to the feeling of comfort and being part of the scene.
Much of this is available on the major landfalls of the 32 islands, islets and cays which make up this still
off-beat archipelago in the Leewards.
But a few miles south of the "mainland" of St. Vincent at the tiny, private island of Mustique, people like
rock star David Bowie own Bali-styled villas; other part-time residents are Mick Jagger and Princess
Margaret They are on to the next cool trend in Caribbean travel the "private" island where if you want room
service you hoist a yellow flag and a half hour later someone shows up to take your order.
These villas are rented at prices ranging from $2,500 a week and up. The lure is privacy and exclusivity,
gorgeous virgin scenery and a little name-dropping cache.
For somewhat less, you can book yourself into a private resort on a private island in the Grenadines, get all
the style and amenities and still enjoy an original down island feel.
These resorts may be a bit pricey, but they're a bargain compared to, say, Necker Island in the British
Virgins, which goes for a reported $10,000 a day! In the Eastern Caribbean, a couple can find wonderful
privacy and luxury for about $2,000 to $5,000 a week
I know it's easy for me to say that kind of money for a vacation requires serious disposable income. Yet, at
some point the aficionado must be satisfied. Discovering a true remote island experience becomes paramount
It's unique, this idea of getting back to the Caribbean via the private island and like any edgy adventure, it's
fun to explore and see what the high-end experience brings us.
Aside from Mustique, the three private resort islands in the Grenadines are Young Island, Petit St. Vincent,
and Palm Island. These are essentially landfalls where the guests make up most of the population
Accommodations are varied from cottages to villas. All are excellent As for privacy, you can live as
shamelessly as love itself on the beaches. It's what these islands are about
We stayed for a time at Young Island, only 200 yards across Kingston Harbor, off the south coast of St.
Vincent The island is a mini-mountain of dense green set in a wide blue matrix of the sea Its 29 cottages are
tucked away along a broad hillside overlooking the harbor; they are done in a South Seas style and situated
so that no one sees anyone else.
If you tire of so much privacy, you can sail up the coast of St. Vincent Pastel villages accent the steep hills,
and in small harbors, fishing boats painted red, green and black are moored dose to the beach Farther on,
ancient rivers of lava flow out of the forest The entire northern end of the island is dominated by La
Soutriere, the volcanic mother of these islands and the rain forest at Baleine Falls.
Young Island's cuisine is nicely done, especially if you like fresh seafood. There also is "The French
Restaurant" at Kingston Harbour. This is a serious French restaurant, which in the Caribbean, is a true
diamond on the beach. A ferry chugs diners back and forth between the island and the mainland, though a few
swim over before dark and take the ferry back after they've eaten.
Costs vary. There are "lover's packages" ranging from $2,000 to $3,000 a week per couple. The general
rate of accommodations goes from about $250 to $400 a night If you happen to be in St. Vincent you may
want to check it out before signing on. Privacy, after ale may take as many forms as there are seekers of
privacy, and you definitely want to get value.
The other private islands, Petit St. Vincent and Palm, are accessible by air out of Union Island. The local
carriers are LIAT, Mustique Airways, Aero Services, and Air Martnique, which departs out of
Fort-de-France. They fly BN2 Islanders, Foxstar Barons, Shorts, Cessna 402s, racy turboprops - all a great
joy.
The motto of the Petit St. Vincent Resort is, "A private island for private people." Indeed, it is. There is
nothing on the island, but the resort white sand beaches, clear water and shaded trails.
There are 22 luxury cottages situated over a hilly 113 acres. Each affords a unique sense of discretion and
privacy with wonderful views of the sea and the island's manicured gardens. Cuisine and service are in the
"pampered luxury" category.
The price, as of this writing, was about $2,000 plus per couple for seven nights. Daily rates were reported at
$430 per day, which includes meals, and unlimited use of sailboats and other sports equipment
The rates for Palm Island, a few miles east of Union, are reportedly in the same bracket as Young Island and
Petit St. Vincent There are 24 bungalows carefully set among palms and casuarina trees, a gazebo-styled bar
and a restaurant of international standing. The island's motto is "paradise found."
Travel consultant Ellen Sisser of Travel Network says it's important to ask questions - lots of them - before
plunking down private island rates. Travel Network has three hundred offices worldwide, and Sisser's
formula for getting the most for your money consists of the following:
- Talk to people you know who have stayed at private island resorts. Service is important, and there's a big
difference between privacy and being marooned
- Ask about seasonal price variations. Between April 15 and mid-December, it's possible to save as much as
50%, even at the most luxurious resorts.
- Research the details. Small amenities are telling. Inspect menus, wine lists, emergency transportation and
communications (some private resorts do not place phones in the rooms). Also check ancillary costs such as
departure taxes, transportation to and from the airport, and the details of an "all-inclusive" package.
"Real bargains can be had," Sisser says.
Of course privacy has many faces. The real essence came home to me one day following a hectic film shoot
on the reefs at Mayreau. We lunched at Palm and one of the waitresses joked around quite a lot in a very
cheerful way.
A few days later, we were walking along a deserted road at Union Island. It was a moonless night A high
voice called my name in the darkness. I couldn't imagine who it might be.
It turned out to be the waitress from Palm Island!
"I told you I would not forget," she laughed.
But how could she recognize anyone, least of all a perfect stranger, in the darkness?
"Your voice. I will always know it," she said.
I hoped she would, and I made up my mind that one day I would be back and I would know her voice, too.